Wednesday, 16 December 2015

An Edwardian Christmas Dinner Menu (with Amber Pudding)

My 1900 edition of Mrs Beeton's Family Cookery & Household Management does not provide any specific menu designed especially for Christmas, but Mrs Beeton does mention traditional Christmas dinner fare in her December menus for twelve, ten or eight persons.

She would have you prepare and serve for ten persons "Gravy Soup" as an entrée, followed by Brill with a Shrimp Sauce.  After a suitable interval,  Scalloped Oysters would be served with Mutton Cutlets.  The centrepiece course consists of Roast Turkey and Ham, accompanied by potatoes and stewed celery.  A Russian Salad would then clear the palate before a dessert course of Plum Pudding and Maraschino Jelly.

Personally, I am more taken with one of her December Dinners for "Six to Twelve Persons" where the perennial first course of soup is Oyster Soup, followed by Turbot with Tartare Sauce.  A Vol-au-Vent of Chicken follows, then a Sirloin of Beef accompanied by potatoes and cabbage.  I would give the next course of "Partridges" a miss (you can go a bit overboard at Christmas) but would willingly tuck into the recommended dessert of Amber Pudding (I'll get to this one later) and Mince Pies.

In another menu for the same number of guests, Mrs Beeton proposes Stewed Pigeons as the second entrée after which a Saddle of Mutton is to be served with the ubiquitous potatoes and stewed celery.  A "Salad" is to follow, then an incredibly rich dessert course of Plum Pudding and Trifle.  I suggest serving only one of these, as clothes may not fit after scoffing both of these extremely rich and sweetened dishes at the one sitting.

Now to the recipe for Amber Pudding, which to me represents a fine and fitting recipe for a Christmas dessert with its glace cherries, apples and puff pastry:

Amber Pudding

Ingredients: (to fill a large pie dish)

6 apples                                      1 lemon
3 eggs, separated                       3 oz. sugar
a little caster sugar                     2 oz. butter
a few glace cherries                   short or puff pastry

Peel and core the apples and stew them with the rind and juice of the lemon and the sugar until reduced to a pulp.  Grease the bottom of the pie dish and line it half way down with pastry.  Pass the apple marmalade through a sieve, add to it the yolks of the eggs.  After mixing thoroughly, turn the mixture into the dish and bake for 15 minutes. 

Beat the whites of the eggs until they are stiff, adding as much caster sugar as they will take up.  Put this mixture on top of the baked pudding, decorate with the cherries and place into a moderate oven to bring to a bright golden colour.  This dish can of course be prepared ahead of time and served cold.

Edwardian cookery was the last hurrah of British cuisine as after WWI, when many soldiers had been buried on the battlefields, estates were sold off by the aristocracy and women went into service in reduced numbers. As a consequence, the wealthy went to live in smaller homes which warranted only one cook and lavish, multi-course, labour intensive meals were no longer served.

Aristocrats who formerly would never have set foot in a kitchen, except to deliver instructions to the cook or housekeeper, acquired at least a modicum of kitchen knowledge out of necessity.  Lady Agnes Jekyll published Kitchen Essays in 1922 where she describes meals for one in pieces such as the one entitled "Tray Food".  A supreme hostess, (whose first dinner party hosted Ruskin, Burne-Jones and Browning) Lady Agnes espouses in her delightfully written book that at Sunday suppers, 'it often matters less what is on the table than what is on the chairs...and a "loaf of bread, a jug of wine" might be found entirely adequate provision' at such occasions.  Such it was that simple food replaced heavy opulence and home entertaining changed forever.

Saturday, 28 November 2015

Christmas Cake & Almond Icing by Mrs Beeton

Certain of Mrs Beeton's recipes are often quite simple to make as they state their measurements in cupfuls rather than ounces or pounds.  So much easier to measure and no necessity to look up the conversion chart into grams or millilitres.  And her Christmas Cake is one such recipe - to be precise it requires teacupfuls of flour, melted butter and treacle, but most cooks do have a teacup in their cupboard, usually inherited from their mother or grandmother.  So, once you have found your teacup, please try this recipe for a basic Christmas cake, flavoured with raisins.  It can then be decorated with almond icing or as pictured with glace cherries and almonds.

Christmas Cake

5 teacupfuls of flour                                                1 teaspoonful carbonate of soda
1 teacupful of melted butter                                    1 tablespoonful of vinegar
1 teacupful of cream                                               2 eggs, well-whisked
1 teacupful of moist sugar (I used brown)              1 teacupful of treacle
1/2 oz. (12g) powdered ginger                                8 oz. (225g) raisins, cut into small pieces

Pre-heat oven to 180C.  Melt the butter sufficiently warm to melt it, but do not allow it to oil.  Put the flour into a basin, add to it the sugar, ginger and raisins.  When these dry ingredients are thoroughly mixed, stir in the butter, cream, treacle and eggs.  Beat the mixture for a few minutes.  Dissolve the carbonate of soda in the vinegar, add it to the dough and be particular that these latter ingredients are well incorporated with the others.  Put the cake into a buttered mould or tin, place it into a moderate (180C) oven immediately and bake for 1 and half to 2 and a half hours.

Almond Icing

1 lb (500g) caster sugar                                            Whites of 4 eggs                                         
1 lb (500g) almonds, blanched                                 A little rosewater

Pound the almonds to a paste with a little rosewater.  Beat the egg whites to a stiff froth and mix with the almonds.  Add the sugar and beat all together.  Spread the mixture onto cake and put in oven to dry.

Wednesday, 1 April 2015

Hot Cross Buns

Seasonable on Good Friday
Mrs Beeton's recipe for "Buns, Hot Cross" is a very simple one compared to its modern counterparts: there are fewer ingredients and a lot less kneading.  Nevertheless, they were quite a success when I baked them according to her recipe: (The wineglass of yeast I took to mean the type of wineglass served in pubs, i.e. small).

Ingredients for 2 dozen buns:

2lbs (1 kg) of flour
1/2 lb (250g) of sugar
1 wineglass of yeast (or 2 tablespoons)
1 pint (568 ml) of milk
1/2 lb (250g) of butter
1 lb (500g) of currants
1/2 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon of mixed spice
  • Mix the flour and sugar, spice and currants; make a hole in the middle of the flour, and put in a glassful of thick yeast and the milk, warmed; make a batter of the surrounding milk and flour, and set the pan covered before the fire, till the leaven begins to ferment. (About an hour, and don't worry if you don't have a fire, just use a warm place and cover the mixture in plastic wrap).  Put to the mass the butter melted, and enough milk to make a soft paste of all the flour. Form the buns and lay them a little distance apart  on buttered tins to rise for half an hour. Cross them with a knife and bake in a quick oven for 20 minutes.
A 200 degree oven is what my buns were baked in and they turned out well, if a little scone-like. Interestingly, Mrs Beeton omits to tell us when to add the salt into the dough, but I put it in at the very beginning with flour with no ill effects.  The wineglassful of yeast turned into 2 tablespoons of dried yeast in my recipe and the buns certainly did rise.  

And no fiddling around with a flour paste cross for the tops of the buns:Mrs Beeton merely slashes them with a knife.  I would however recommend making a glaze from 2 tablespoons of caster sugar and 2 tablespoons of boiling water to brush over the buns after they are turned onto a cake rack and while they are still hot.
  • Allow to cool on the rack for 10 minutes before serving on Good Friday.



Saturday, 21 March 2015

Does the Millennium Woman Have Time to Hollow Out a Meringue?

After reading Mrs Beeton's recipe for meringues sandwiched together with liqueur or vanilla flavoured cream, I mentioned it to a friend and then said, "But it's so fiddly; you have to take them out of the oven halfway through the baking, scoop out the underside and then put them back into the oven and I really couldn't be bothered."  His response was  "But they sound so delicious!"

I couldn't deny this fact, so I resolved to try and do as Mrs Beeton says.  The results were as promising as the recipe sounds, so here it is:

Meringues: INGREDIENTS FOR 2 DOZEN - 1/2 lb of pounded sugar, the whites of 4 eggs.

Whisk the whites of the eggs to a stiff froth and, with a wooden spoon, stir in quickly the pounded sugar; and have some boards thick enough to put in the oven to prevent the bottom of the meringues from acquiring too much colour.  Cut some strips of paper about 2 inches wide;  place this paper on the board and drop a tablespoon at a time of the mixture on the paper, taking care to let all the meringues be the same size.  In dropping it from the spoon, give the mixture the form of an egg and keep the meringues about 2 inches apart from each other on the paper.

Strew over them some sifted sugar and bake in a moderate oven for 1/2 hour.  As soon as they begin to colour remove them from the oven; take each slip of paper by the two ends and turn it gently on the table and, with a small spoon, take out the soft part of each meringue.  Spread some clean paper on the board, turn the meringues upside down and put them into the oven to harden and brown on the other side.

When required for table fill them with whipped cream, flavoured with liqueur or vanilla and sweetened with sugar.  Join two of the meringues together and pile them high in a dish (i.e. cake stand).  To vary their appearance finely-chopped almonds may be strewn over them before the sugar is sprinkled over.

Great expedition is necessary in making this dish; as if the meringues are not put into the oven as soon as the eggs and sugar are mixed, the former melts and the mixture would run on the paper instead of keeping its egg shape.  The sweeter the meringues are made the crisper they will be; but if there is not sufficient sugar mixed with them they will most likely be tough.  They are sometimes coloured with cochineal and if kept well covered in a dry place will remain good for a month or six weeks.

A luxurious dessert or afternoon tea treat they turned out to be - I flavoured my cream with Triple Sec, but you could use Cointreau, Grand Marnier, Creme de Menthe, brandy or whatever is in your liquor cabinet.  The time spent was well worth the effort, as you now have a whole batch of meringues which will keep for some time, just waiting for their cream and liqueur filling at the right moment.

Your guests will be suitably impressed and you can congratulate yourself on producing a quite exquisite and elegant treat with only a relatively small amount of effort.

Sunday, 25 January 2015

Ices & Iced Puddings

The heat here in this part of the world is intense at present and one should always have a water ice or iced pudding on hand to serve as a refreshing dessert. Otherwise known as sorbet, ices may be flavoured with just about any type of fruit.  Ms Beeton flavours hers with raspberry, strawberry or red currant fruit water and also provides recipes for banana ice cream, lemon water ice, pineapple ice, raspberry ice and strawberry ice cream. I will confine myself here to the recipes for ices first and the iced pudding second.

Ices:

[For every pint of fruit juice mixture (aka fruit water) allow 1 pint of syrup]
  • Firstly, one must make a fruit water.  Select ripe fruit, pick off stalks and put into a pan with a little sugar strewed over. Stir mixture about with a wooden spoon until it is well broken, then rub it through a hair sieve.  
  • Make a syrup by combining 1 cup of sugar with 1 cup of water in a small saucepan and allowing mixture to simmer over medium to high heat until sugar is dissolved (about 5 minutes).  Remove from heat, let it cool, add the fruit water, mix well together and put the mixture into a freezing pan.  When frozen, put it into small glasses or plates.  
Cook's Tips:

For an elegant serving method, a loaf shaped cake tin may be used if you do not have a decorative jelly or cake mould or glass serving bowls.  Serve slices cut with a very sharp knife on plates for an elegant presentation.

Additions such as aromatics: mint, lemon mint, chocolate mint, spearmint, other fresh herbs, cinnamon sticks, vanilla beans, cardamom, cacao nibs, fresh lemongrass, fresh ginger, lavender, jasmine, coconut, rosewater or any other aromatic ingredient may be swirled into the mixture before freezing.*

Liqueurs such as wine, Cointreau, champagne, prosecco or Spanish Cavacrème de menthe or triple sec may also be included in the mixture prior to freezing.

Iced Pudding:

INGREDIENTS: 1/2 lb of sweet almonds, 2 oz. of bitter ones, 3/4 lb of sugar, 8 eggs, 1 and 1/2 pints milk, a few slices of citron or preserved cherries.

Blanch and dry the almonds thoroughly in a cloth, then pound them in a mortar until reduced to a smooth paste; add to these the eggs, well beaten, the sugar and milk; stir these ingredients over the fire until they thicken, but do not allow them to boil; then strain and put the mixture into the freezing pot and freeze it.  When quite frozen, fill an iced-pudding mould, put on the lid and keep the pudding in ice until required for table; then turn it out on the dish.  This pudding may be flavoured with vanilla, curacao or maraschino.

*Further flavour suggestions:
- Pink Grapefruit, Tarragon with Vodka
- Key Lime
- Bittersweet Chocolate
- Lime Basil
- Strawberry with Black Pepper
- Lemonade
- Iced Tea (made with English Breakfast Tea which forms the 'fruit water')
- Cherry (made with Cherry Jam)
- Rhubarb
- Orange
- Limoncello-Mint
- Buttermilk
- French Martini (Pineapple juice (3 cups) Lemon juice (1/4 cup) Chambord (1/4 cup) Vodka (2 tblspns)
- Spicy Lemon (2 tblspns finely chopped crystallized ginger, 1/4 tblspn white pepper added to previously made Lemon Sorbet)
- Mango Tequila
- Early Grey with Chocolate
- Peach, Watermelon and Cranberry
- Port and Plum
- Hibiscus Tea with Rosewater
- Watermelon with Rosewater, Mint Leaves or Rose Petals & Coconut Cream (optional)
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