The Downstairs Cook

There had always been mystery surrounding my maternal grandmother. Born in London, she had arrived in Sydney in 1910 and worked as a governess before marrying a stockman and settling on a cattle property near Warialda in northern New South Wales, or so the family legend held.  She died in 1955, before I was born, so I never knew her - only of her reputation as a rather formidable, matriarchal woman who eventually left her husband and moved to the nearby town of Inverell so their two children could attend school.  Always puzzled by her ownership of a 1900 edition of Mrs Beeton's Household Management (now passed to me) as it was not clear why a governess would need to refer to such a publication, this mystery was finally cleared after I searched the online 1901 UK census records and found "Edith Irwin" aged 19, living in a residence in Streatham, London where she was listed as "Cook, domestic."

My interest piqued, I searched the 1891 census records, but to no avail.  There was no record of her at all.  My mother then gave me the clue, shortly before she died, that unlocked Edith's origins; she was an orphan "who lived with an aunt."  No "aunt" was located by me, but when I typed the word "orphanage" into the search engine, presto! There she was - a resident of the St.Pancras Foundling Hospital, along with many other girls aged from eight to 14.

I had found her, but I needed to know more - what was life like for a young orphan girl in late Victorian London?  When and how did she arrived at the Foundling Hospital?  And were there any records relating to her parents - whose names she knew, as they appeared on her marriage certificate.  The items I inherited from her - an exquisite crystal perfume bottle with an elaborate silver cap, a silver dressing table set with a glorious design of cherubic angels had always fascinated me; she was clearly a woman who loved beauty and who could afford to buy such things, despite her humble station.  The fact she had been born into a situation where she sat on the bottom rung of society, yet managed to acquire items of beauty, apparent self-sufficiency and self-reliance only made me more curious and determined to discover more about her and the eras in which she lived - the late Victorian and the Edwardian, the end of which coincided with her embarking upon the ship which would bring her to her new home, and new era of her own, in Australia.

My hunger led me to commence a fabulous journey of discovery into the period of my grandmother's life which coincided with the elegant and glittering fin de siecle.  Guided also by Mrs Beeton and her household bible full of recipes, this is the story of a culinary journey as well, informed by annotations made by my grandmother herself in that definitive tome.  Please read on to discover a collection of the best tried and tested recipes from Mrs Beeton and other cooks of the time....